Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
It seems to work,but how accurate? I am sure you have to check signal wire for ford map with multimeter that reads hertz, or a scope. I would give sensor and wiring a good visual check. If mounted right in and no hose-I would pull it out for visual check.
Where they place the MAP sensor on these trucks is a pain to get to. I already have a new one that I purchased months ago so I'll probably just go ahead and replace it.
The pressure part of the sensor seems most the time to read accurately but the intake temperature portion of the sensor doesn't seem right to me.
might want to get fuel pressure readings at idle, 2000 and 2500 rpm and while the issue is occurring this might be an issue with the fuel pump driver/control module "bolted to cross tube above spare tire and has eight pin connector"
I'll try to get a fuel pressure gauge that will work with this system today or loan one out at the parts store. I'll double check about fuel pressure readings on my scan tool as well. I know it has fuel tank pressure readings but can't remember about fuel rail.
So I have pids marked as line pressure. But I don't think it's fuel related. But it's also strange that desired and actual is different on whatever it is.
There's a lot here, so I may have missed some points. The intake air temperature PID does sound suspiciously high. When the engine is cold after sitting overnight, key on engine not running, does the IAT agree with the rest of the temperature sensors?
I have heard instructor John Forrow say that restricted catalytic converters can raise IAT to temperatures that you would not typically find. I have not used this method to diagnose a restricted exhaust, but it sounds plausible.
Regarding VVT as Tyler mentioned earlier, there are VVT error pods for each bank. You really only want to see a degree or two of error and only momentarily when changing rpm. Steadily higher numbers of degrees of error indicate VVT issues.
Also does anyone know how to find out if I should have a fuel rail pressure data pid available? I feel like I have seen it before but can't seem to find it on either of my scan tools currently.
Thanks again everyone
Concerning VVT data I have desired, actual, and then a desired minus actual for the difference/error. At idle most of the time they stay close to zero. I have had times in deceleration, light throttle tip in, and snap throttle where I have seen numbers in the negative to positive 30's. It doesn't stay long but does happen I'll try to get a capture of it. I have done the test where you unplug the VCT solenoid and it locks the phasers in a certain spot but it's been a while so I need to do this again and monitor data. I also decided to extend my oil change interval this time to see if the condition worsened. It seems like it has Because I can notice a shudder when rolling to a stop at a stop sign and also get random shudders sometimes sitting parked at idle and fuel trims normally drop to -20 something when that shudder happens but then the shudder stops and goes back to where it was.
Noah, Tyler and others on forum would know far more on vvt than me. I know they recommend oil changes as stated by manufacturers. Looking back, your scanner said both banks lean at 3500 rpm, bank 2 far leaner than bank 1. Just saying.
Can you explain what you're meaning for the end of your message when talking about the previous data? Are you meaning that makes you think it's more fuel related?
Just where everyone gets where I'm coming from I'm not leaning in a specific direction myself currently. Just trying to look at all data and then pick a path. I believe it could be fuel related but I also believe it could be vct related.
I also haven't ruled out computer related issues. During all this happening I borrowed a friend's bluedriver for a while and noticed when graphing data I had random times when signal would drop out or certain sensors would spike or dip to levels that wouldn't be possible. For instance engine coolant temp dip to 32 degrees F and then go back to normal range. It would happen on a few sensors at the same time.
Also during that time I had a redtop optima battery that started leaking and knew that wasn't supposed to happen. On their website it stated if one was leaking it was most likely from an alternator over charging. I checked the alternator and it was operating correctly so I replaced the battery.
Another reason I had some computer concerns were that my factory plugs when I replaced them the gaps were a good bit out of spec and I had heard of coils being stressed and damaging the computer. So again multiple concerns and I've done a lot checking but just trying to find the right path.
So I had something happen that stressed me out even more about my truck. We went to a few estate sales earlier. At the last one we got back in the truck started it and put it in drive and noticed the indicator in the guages didn't move. I moved it back to park an then again to drive. Indicator still didn't move and I realized the whole dash was out. I started connecting scan tool and turned truck off and then back on and it started fine. Shifted again from park to drive and still nothing. Went back to park left it running and while running scan about a minute later the dash came back on. Ran a scan and this is some of the first things I got.
