Hemi 5.7 Just Rebuit engine, Crank no Start

Hi All, I just finished rebuilding a 2006 Dodge Ram 5.7 engine a few days ago. I tried to start it but it won't start, it just cranks. I am using a Phoenix Plus scanner to diagnose problems. It only has a P0118 code. I added the Antifreeze and water mix but since the thermostat has not opened, I am not sure if that is why is giving me the code. It did not have it before the rebuild.
No othe engine codes. The cam/crank difference is showing a -1.8°, and the cam out of sync. I can do a crank/cam relearn but I read that the engine temperature must be at least 70° C /176F° to perform the relearn. Can that be done anyway? Temp here is around 40°F.
I also have a 2004 Dodge Ram with the same engine in good working order, as far as I can tell. That one is showing a crank cam difference of 6553.40° (wtf?) and the cam out of sync. No noticeable performance issues. Seems -1.8° should not be a problem, but..
.
First thing, I checked the fuel pressure which was fine. I still sprayed some starter fluid, just in case. It actually just made a huge pop, no attempt to start. I then checked spark on two coil ends and there was spark. Given the pop with the starter fluid, it was obvious trhere was spark, but just in case. 

I cleaned all the sensors while I had them off. I dumped them in a container with diesel fuel I had. I used water based cleaners througout the leaning process and did not want to use that to clean the sensors. I mention it in case that could be a problem. But again no codes except the PO118. I also have a Snappy Verus scanner with the scope function, in case that can be used to diagnose it. I really have never used the scope function but it is a good chance I can figure it out. As you can tell, I am not a professional mechanic, just a fairly advanced DIYer.

Any advice I can try next? 
Thank you in advance.
Mario 

P0018 is referring to a problem with the coolant temp sensor circuit.
Enhanced data may substitute a coolant temperature PID in its absence, but generic OBD2 should report the accurate voltage and corresponding temperature PID.
Unrealistic temperature values will effect the injector pulse width and can create a no start situation.
Since you have two of the same vehicles, you can compare cranking injector on time to see if the no start truck is over fueling.

Thank you Noah. I will hook up the scanner to the 2004 truck and see if I can find the "cranking injector on time" pid and then compare it to the non starting one.
I will also remove a spark plug to see if it looks floded.
Thank you for responding.

Hello. Followed up on the PO118. I did not think it critical. Turns out the sensor is likely defective. It shows the coolant temp at 98F and the ambient Temp at 44F, which is the actual ambient temp. The coolant temp is probably colder than that.
I need a 3 pin sensor and the part stores only showed 2 pin sensors in the databases. I will need to get it from the dealer.
I found "cranking injector pulse width" in my scanner.
Nothing else with the word "cranking" in the pid description. That showed "0". Is that the pid I needed to check? ("cranking injector on time") My other truck wasn't around to check. Will do that on Monday.
Thank you

Update: Well, a newie mistake. I compared the ambient temperature to the coolant temperature when I should have compared it to the intake air temperature. Those 2 were in fact, identical. So I think the coolant sensor is ok, but I still need to resolve the P0118.
I removed a spark plug and it was way flooded.
I was worried about the crank/cam correlation but when cranking it, it showed 6551.70 degrees vs. 6553.53 on the other truck. I am not sure if I was supposed to check the cranking Injection PW, but it was 58.8 ms vs. 65.8 on the running truck.

I will take out all the plugs to dry them somehow. I will look to unplug / disable the fuel pump to avoid flooding it again. I will try to see it it at least attempts to start spraying fuel into the throttle. So far, it has not tried to start at all.
Any ideas anyone can send my way would be appeciated.

Thank you
Mario

In OBD Direct, If you unplug the Engine coolant sensor, you should see -40 deg. You can also look at the freeze frame data and see what temperature  and how long the engine had been running before the code set.. It is possible that you have in intermittent issue.

"Assuming is never a good thing." Agree

I am working to find the cause of the P0118. The Miller Tool 8815 will come in handy for that. The issue will be to find it. I had forgot about that one.

Unfortunately, the engine has not been able to start since the rebuild, no way to get a freeze frame reading. At least not a useful one at this point.

I appreciate you chiming in.

Thank you,

What happened after you dried the spark plugs? Did they get wet again after cranking?

I ordered an Acel spark plug tester and it's coming tomorrow. I am curious to see if they fire soaked as they are. I have not removed them yet. I'll find out tomorrow. If they do fire wet, the firing should dry them out.
Noah made the point above that the P0118 might be causing the over-fueling. I will strive to get that fixed to avoid the over-fueling, if that is indeed the cause.
I plan to get to it tomorrow.
Thanks!

Be aware that excessive cranking can result in engine flooding.
You may need to floor the gas pedal to allow more air into the engine as you try to start it.
Keep us updated.

Well I had a good day/bummer of a day. It took me a long time but I was able to resolve the P0118 code. Turned out to be a bare section of the reference wire to the coolant sensor. It was already developing some of the green corrosion.

To avoid the flooding issue when checking for codes while looking to fix the P0118, really especially because of it, I disconnected the harness at the fuel tank. Not an easy task to be sure.
I started to remove the spark plugs to test an dry them. The last time I checked them was Sunday. I only removed 2 and they were dry by now and they tested ok.
Before reconnecting the fuel pump harness, I tried to start the engine using starter fluid. It did NOTHING.
I reconnected the fuel pump and cranked it a few times but again, no signs of combustion.
I figured it might be flooded again after trying to start it a few times. I removed a spark plug and was surprised to find it relatively dry. It smelled of fresh gas, but it was not wet. The starting fluid should have produced some combustion.

What could be happening? There are no codes whatever. I didn't prime the lifters when I installed them. As much as I have cranked it, they sould be primed by now. Also, when I installed the push rods, I made sure to check that all the valves were moving up and down.
Could it be a timing chain issue? I made sure to follow the manual instructions. The early and late Hemis have a different procedure and I made sure I used the appropriate one. Would that show up in the scanner data if there was a problem there?
I have witnessed what happens when the timing chain is not done right. Lots of random cilinder explosions. Mine does occasionally fire, but only one, and 1 in 10 crankings or so.

I had already checked for spark before and there was spark.

What should I check next? Anyone?

I would appreciate some tips.

Thank you.
Mario

yes could be timing , make sure your on the compresion stroke, when piston going to top .

Is there a way to check to see if the timing is correct without opening up the front? Wouldn't the engine throw some kind of code related to that, if it was not correct? There are no codes.

I can get cylinder 1 to TDC, but what do I check that against? In the old engines there was markings on the harmonic balancer but not on this one.

I have tried to find out in the interweb but no luck.
Thanks
Mario

Finding and correcting the cause of the coolant temp error was a worth while venture in my opinion, nice job tracking it down.
A compression test may help take some stuff off the table as far as a mechanical issue.
You could also scope the cam and crank sensor and compare to a known good cam crank correlation to verify timing without taking the timing cover back off.
You mention the engine has been rebuilt, what exactly was the extent of this "rebuild"?
I also drive a Hemi Ram with a DOD delete camshaft and lifter kit from AMS racing, so I've been in there, lol.

Noah, thank for the for the encouragement. I was stoked to figure out the P0118. A cautionary tale to DIYrs like me, I had previously checked the voltage on the wire and it had checked out ok. I didn't have my Load Pro with me then and when I checked it the second time using it, it dropped the voltage, revealing a problem.

Thank you for your suggestions. I had already started to disassemble the front end to check the timing. I had arrived to the conclusion that there had to be a problem there. Sure enough, the chain was one tooth off.  Removing the oil pump without removing the engine as the manual calls for was a challenge, but got it done. I have the timing assembly and pump put back together. I plan to continue to work to put everything else back together tomorrow. I feel pretty confident it will at least start.

I would have loved to try to learn the scoping procedure. I have never used the scope function. It would have been a great exercise, especially since I have the other truck with the hemi engine to compare the crank / cam correlation. I am still amazed that the scanner did not pick up any anomaly. The crank/cam difference in the two trucks was almost identical.

The rebuild entailed boring the cylinders and crankshaft 10 (mils ?)  New camshaft, lifters, pistons, timing assembly and oil pump. The heads had new valve seats installed with new valves, springs and pushrods. All the bolts recommended new by the factory manual were installed. New water pump, all tensioner pulleys, throttle body, radiator and heater hoses and exhaust headers. My intent was to try to eliminate every possible point I could think of, to not have to come back to it but in the end, I made the stupidest of mistakes. I was fully aware of the importance of the timing but I till managed to screw it up.

Your AMS racing upgrades must be nice. I use this truck quite frequently for offroad use. I felt had more than enough power for that, as traction in loose terrain is not good, even as it was with the 277k mile-engine, even in 4x4 mode. I plan to install lockers in both axles at some point, so the traction should improve significantly. Especially off-road, the power of these engines feels phenomenal. My 4.0 Wrangler, even with a Banks turbo installed, feels puny.

I am feeling optimistic for tomorrow's reveal.

Thanks again.

Thank you all who have commented.


Mario

Keep us posted as it goes back together!
It's not too late to use that scope. You're better off practicing on something that runs anyway, and there's a whole video series on Scanner Danner Premium that will get you familiar with the set up and functions of the tool.

Well, friends, the big reveal. Not! After buttoning everything up today, the same story. Nothing changed, as the engine would not start. Same thing, no codes. There are fuel and spark. Then I thought about what Noah said about checking the compression. I really thought that was the least of my worries. I was wrong. After trying to get it going for a long time, I decided to check the compression. I tried cylinder 2 first. There was ZERO compression. Tried #1 next and the same story. I uncoupled the metering head from the hose,still connected to the cylinder and there wasn't as much as a whiff coming out the end during cranking. I tried to see if I could hear some air escaping from around the head gaskets but I could hear nothing. I didn't check any more cylinders, the writing was on the wall.

It blew my mind. My mind still is. How can this be? Any ideas?
Completely Flustered Mario
Thank you.

By the way Noah, thank you for the heads up on the Premium Chanel's scope content. I will try that out.
I do need to start practicing with the scope.
Mario

sad to here that , cyl 1 on top, but must be on the compression stroke , hope valves are not gone

Ahh, that's disheartening. Sorry to hear that. I didn't think being a tooth off would stop it from running, but I didn't want to discourage you since you were all ready in there.
A couple of things I can remember from putting the heads back on the engine, the intake and exhaust push rods are different lengths, getting the push rods mixed up could end poorly. They can also be tricky to seat in the lifter buckets. With a dab of assembly lube on the end of the pushrod, I rolled the pushrods between my fingers to kind of feel that they were indeed engaging the lifter down inside the bore.
Not saying you did a poor job, just trying to think of variables.
You could do a cylinder leak down test next to see where the compression is escaping.
On that engine, I would probably pull the rocker train off. That should close all the valves on every cylinder so you can tear the whole bank without having to rotate the engine to TDC compression.
One other thing I read while reviewing camshaft kits for my engine was that some people got the cam timing 180°. Not sure what marks they using, but happened.