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Noah wrote: As long as the needle is steady and not bouncing or dropping off, the valve train should be fine.
Sorry to hear about the oil leak after all that work! Any ideas?
I hope things aren't warped.. Other than that why else would I still have leaks seeping from the lower intake and headgasket areas? Torqued to spec in correct order including the degree turn at the end
How's the PCV system? With the engine idling, you can put your vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube and check the reading. Should pretty much stay at zero.
Excessive crankcase pressure might cause a lower intake to leak, but not a head gasket...
Lets think about the need for WOT, to things are going on here air and fuel. I am sure it probably getting air so we need to look at if the air is getting out, you stated that the car was burning coolant, if this is true in time the coolant will damage the cat., thus restrict exhaust. If you are limited in test equipment. You can unhook the cat and start it, if it runs, you know what’s next.
I would test the fuel system, pump pressure and volume. And injector drop test.
Noah wrote: As long as the needle is steady and not bouncing or dropping off, the valve train should be fine.
Sorry to hear about the oil leak after all that work! Any ideas?
I hope things aren't warped.. Other than that why else would I still have leaks seeping from the lower intake and headgasket areas? Torqued to spec in correct order including the degree turn at the end
How's the PCV system? With the engine idling, you can put your vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube and check the reading. Should pretty much stay at zero.
Excessive crankcase pressure might cause a lower intake to leak, but not a head gasket...
I did get an aftermarket (Autozone duralast) PCV valve for 2 bucks which I hear does not compare too manufacturer valves. I think I'm going to go to General Motors soon to pick up a new one
Last edit: 8 years 7 months ago by Noah. Reason: fixed
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