No start 2006 Nissan murano
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This SD video demonstrates how to 'be the computer' with these coils:
I understand why you're not worried about injector pulse, fuel, or compression just yet, since you don't have spark. However, knowing if you have those other things can help you get a better idea of where you're headed with your diagnosis. For example, missing spark but not injection pulse might suggest the cam/crank signals are OK. Missing both might suggest an input problem.
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Sal209120 wrote: update: I did have a voltage reading on my signal wire for the coil ( COP type). as suggested i was not able to pick it up with a test light due to low voltage. Used a multimeter and this signal wire had a voltage reading of 9mv in the on pos. when cranking it went to 45mv. These readings seem low for a signal. Should i expect to see a higher voltage? if so possible reasons; short or ECU? also have not gone around to getting a scope yet
That 45mv cranking might be your DMM averaging trigger pulses in with the base ~0 v. If your DMM has a bar graph manually rangeing to 6v and watching the bar graph might show pulses. This works with my Flukes, as a quick and dirty test, but they're fairly fast refresh at 40 Hz.
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Sal209120 wrote: Dang I have no graph on my basic Multimeter. Any product you recommend I try to see this pulse? I hope the signal is there and it’s just a bad ignition coil. But then all 6 coils would be bad, which I’m hoping for but not likely. This car does have 160k miles and the spark plugs never seemed to be Changed so I hope they are all bad and ecu is fine. Thanks again
I may try to experiment with this tomorrow on my Sentra. Let you know what I find.
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Sal209120 wrote: Dang I have no graph on my basic Multimeter. Any product you recommend I try to see this pulse?
Like Tyler said a 'scope is the best way to check it. And an inexpensive 'scope can be had for less money than a good DMM.
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Short answer is yes! You can use a DMM to check for signal on the coil wire. First, a shakycam of my meter on the #1 coil control wire with the engine idling:
drive.google.com/file/d/1kER3F5ziMMfHJZV...dRa/view?usp=sharing
About .13V, probably because of the short dwell time at idle.
Then cranking:
drive.google.com/file/d/1k6JmAMSwh0eA4_K...-Bx/view?usp=sharing
Over .3V seems to be good. It's probably also changing because my battery is weak.
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Let me know if the links don't work.
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