Chysler 200 ABS Tone Ring

Hey guys Happy New Year
I am working on a 2012 Chrysler 200 that has a bad abs signal in the right front wheel. So in my attempt in taking the sensor out it got destroyed, put a new one in and still don't have a good signal. I took it back out and there is no teeth on the reluctor wheel so I told my buddy he needs a axle because the sensor bolts to the steering knuckle and not the wheel bearing. He got the new axle and it has NO reluctor ring on it and advance auto has no listing for it, so I look on the Web and I cant find one for the 200, only the 300.
Rock Auto says there CV axles Does not contain reluctor ring.
Is anyone familiar with these cars?
PS
I did look at a new wheel bearing and it don't have it either
Thanks

looks like time to go to the dealer....

"OPERATION
The ABM sends 12 volts to power an Integrated Circuit (IC) in the sensor. The IC supplies a constant 7 mA power supply to the ABM. The relationship of the magnetic pole encoder to the permanent magnet in the sensor, signals the IC to enable a second 7 mA power supply. The output of the sensor, sent to the ABM, is a DC voltage signal with changing voltage and current levels. The ground for the IC and the current sense circuit is provided by the ABM.

When a pole is properly aligned with the sensor, the voltage signal is approximately 0.8 volts and a constant 7 mA current is sent to the ABM. As the magnetic pole encoder rotates, the encoder shifts the magnetic field and the IC enables a second 7 mA current source. The ABM senses a voltage signal of approximately 1.6 volts and 14 mA. The ABM measures the amperage of the digital signal for each wheel. The resulting signal is interpreted by the ABM as the wheel speed"

Per-google, the magnetic pole encoder (serves the function of a tone ring in this application) is integral to the wheel hub.

This type of system is very prone to failures due to non-obvious wheel bearing issues I went through a steep learning curve on it on MG-Rovers about 10 years back. The tone ring is tiny rods of ferromagnetic material encased in the polymer oil seal of the wheel bearing.
This setup gives a higher definition signal for the ABS/Auto stability system but the sensor to oil seal clearance is critical. There is no way to diagnose the system visually.

Article at AGCO Automotive Repair Site

Take extra care not to damage the oil seal when fitting.
I also forgot to mention using non-OEM sensors can cause issues -- always buy factory part.

Thanks guys that is some very helpful information. You are the best!!
I already put a new sensor (aftermarket) in it, customer supplied, how can I determine if its the aftermarket sensor causing the issue or the wheel bearing?
The wheel speed PID is 0 mph. I haven't hooked up a scope yet but when I do I am still not sure I would be able to determine what part is faulty.
Thanks again!!

I did they had no idea

johnphufnagel wrote: Thanks guys that is some very helpful information. You are the best!!
I already put a new sensor (aftermarket) in it, customer supplied, how can I determine if its the aftermarket sensor causing the issue or the wheel bearing?
The wheel speed PID is 0 mph. I haven't hooked up a scope yet but when I do I am still not sure I would be able to determine what part is faulty.
Thanks again!!

The easiest way I can think of would be to remove the sensor from the knuckle and wave something ferrous in front of the sensor while monitoring scan data. The flat end of a pocket screwdriver works perfectly. If you do the waving fast enough, then you'll produce a MPH change on the scanner. If you get a signal this way, then I'd go towards the wheel hub. If not, go towards the sensor/wiring.

Don't be worried about the scope testing of this one, it's pretty straightforward. If I'm reading correctly, then the operation of this sensor is very similar to what Paul demonstrates in this video:



Keep in mind that you can always compare the RF sensor operation to the LF for reference. Also, if all else fails, you can always just jumper the LF sensor into the RF harness. If you can now get the RF wheel speed PID to change, then you know the wiring for the RF is good.

For our info, what exactly is the code you're getting? One thing I've noticed about this design of sensor is that the ABS module can now distinguish between a sensor circuit problem and a tone wheel problem on some applications. It knows the difference because it can determine sensor circuit integrity without having the wheel spinning.

I understand the Chrysler system is based on the Teves system I only really know the Bosch. One thing I discovered is the Bosch system checks the sensor circuit at Key On before the vehicle moves, if the system fails the test it cuts off the supply to the affected sensor and only a much lower ghost voltage remains. If the curcuit between the ABS module through the sensor is bad the warning light comes on imediately at key on even if the codes have been cleared.

If the light comes after the vehicle has moved a few yards then it points to a wheel bearing or sensor fault. The signal from the sensor should be a nice square wave roughly 50% duty cycle.
As Tyler suggested try using the screwdriver test (or small magnet) to give the sensor a false signal. I found the connectors of the Bosch system impossible to back probe so ended up making a break out connector with junkyard parts.

Call me parts swapper but sitting in a corner of the shop I have the ultimate junk yard test tool a complete known good front corner -- swivel hub, hub and sensor I connect it up a see if the spin of the hub fault clears.

Off hand I cant remember the code I will get it later in the week. Thanks for the test ideas.
Thanks I will let yinz know when I get the car back.

Thanks sir! You da man