2017 toyota corolla ABS hydraulic unit bleeding points

Hi friends
please help me we have a car it is repaired after accident , the abs system Do not work properly , I think the pips did not connect to ABS unit correctly so I need the {2017 toyota corolla ABS hydraulic unit bleeding points } diagram or instruction
here the car detail
iaai-tools.com/show/2T1BURHEXHC/2T1BURHEXHC857896

would you pleas help me ?
Best regard

Is it a brand new pump or second hand? If second hand then we have never needed to bleed them - just bleed at each wheel.

Thank you very much, just I need diagram bleeding points, do you have any pictures?

Right at the wheels. Start with the one furthest from the pump and work your way towards it www.google.com/search?rls=en&q=wheel+bra...EAE&biw=1278&bih=689

The most important thing is bleed one circuit at a time once you have bled both circuits once -- bleed them both a gain in the same order.
If bleeding the brakes by pumping the pedal the strokes of the pedal should be slow especially on the return stroke. With ABS the pedal generally may initially feel spongey but a short test run braking hard enough to activate at slow speed a few times will generally get residual air out.

Desmond6004 wrote: Right at the wheels. Start with the one furthest from the pump and work your way towards it www.google.com/search?rls=en&q=wheel+bra...EAE&biw=1278&bih=689

A lot of the accepted teaching on brakes has just been handed down from the early years hydraulic brakes when cars had only a single hydraulic circuit with drum brakes on all 4 wheels with larger bore pipe work. On some models those old systems could be a pita to bleed.
With a modern split system the most important is always bleed one circuit before bleeding the other circuit and even that isn't so important if you have a pressure bleeder ---- pressure bleeders are pretty much essential for any shop or serious DIYer .

Andy.MacFadyen wrote: A lot of the accepted teaching on brakes has just been handed down from the early years hydraulic brakes when cars had only a single hydraulic circuit with drum brakes on all 4 wheels with larger bore pipe work. On some models those old systems could be a pita to bleed.
With a modern split system the most important is always bleed one circuit before bleeding the other circuit and even that isn't so important if you have a pressure bleeder ---- pressure bleeders are pretty much essential for any shop or serious DIYer .

I had wondered about that before with ABS and asked several mechanics - I guess they are all still stuck on the old way because they always insisted it must start from the furthest wheel. Possibly with the younger mechanics who get trained only on ABS things will change over time

The best trick is to minimise the amount of air getting into the system, the cling film trick on the reservoir works welll, as does using clamps on the hoses and blanking plugs on open pipe connections.