Crank, No Start 1992 Lincoln Town Car

1992 Lincoln town car. Crank, no start  Vehicle has a aftermarket viper, remote start system on it  Battery on the remote is dead as I found the remote for the remote start in the glove box.  Not saying this isn’t causing the problem, but unfortunately, I wasn’t able to interview the customer as this was a call in from a shop.  I have zero to nada experience with these. 

Engine sounds as if it has a good cadence when cranking. When I cycle the key from off to the rum position before cranking, you can hear what sounds to be the fuel pump kick in. I have did this multiple times and I hear the click multiple times  

The battery was low thus I’ve had jumper cables on it for about the past hour and a half.  This does have a keypad on the door for locking, unlocking the vehicle.  The key is a plane key and appears to be the original and the door key is a roundhead key.  

I thought I smelled a faint smell the fuel a couple times after cranking.  I’ve noticed when I have the key turned off. There is a green light that flashes that says “antitheft”. When I turn the key to the AC and run position, including cranking, the green flashing antitheft light goes out.  

I also pressed 7890, the last two buttons on the door keypad and the door locks cycled, and the green light would go solid.  Found some information in SI about it activating the lock. 

Did a little digging online with what limited information I could find and saw in a couple Google search results where if I left the Ignition in the opposition with the door for 10 minutes the light will go out. 

Now, when I remove the key from the ignition, the antitheft light flashes green, but when I put the key in the ignition and turn it forward, the card dings as it should and the antitheft light flashing stop flashing


Lately with his busy as I’ve been staying with Keys, module, programming work I generally try to stick with electrical. Not being fully First in these older engines, early iterations of computer systems I tend to want to lean on people that know a little bit more about this than me. 

Any recommendations, suggestions, recommended test are greatly appreciated.  I may be a little slow on getting response as I generally work 12 to 16 hours a day and generally don’t see many nights end before 2 AM.  It’s now 1233 A.m. Thursday morning and I have a 15 minute drive to my next stop for a 2002 Toyota MR2 And then a 10 minute drive from there to the next stop for a 2012 Ford expedition. 

I have about a dozen other things on my list as well, so I’m just trying to work through everything

There’s a few view that know how to text me if you’re reading this and have a response. Definitely text me there as I can probably respond a lot quicker.  

 

Is the battery tested good? Since the antitheft light goes out when the key is in the run position, you are most likely not dealing with an antitheft issue. You need to check the basics: Spark, fuel, compression, injector pulse and timing.

I work at a Gm shop, any time I am doing diag and there are after market devices like tattle tale plug into obd2 we dis connect them. They have been culprit on more than a few occasions. I know it’s not Gm but what if you disconnect remote start and work on getting it to run, then worry about the remote start? Just my thoughts good luck

Good to see you on the forum Dale.
As Monde pointed out, checking for spark and fuel is a good place to start. These engines, although old, are quite robust and generally don't fail to start for anything major in my experience.
A quick check on this generation Ford vehicle is see if the check engine light comes on with the key in the on position, and then goes out while cranking. If it remains on while cranking, then the computer isn't receiving a good crank sensor signal.

Is there idle air control?