help 2011 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L cylinder 1 misfire after replacing knock sensor.

 Recently came across your videos. And having misfire issue on my 2011 2.7L Toyota Tacoma. When I got it it had a p0328 code. After taking intake manifold off I realized the plug connector was tampered with prior and the female side was broken off so I didn’t know which wire went where. I replaced the knock sensor and think I wired it backwards. After further investigating I found a picture showing the correct wiring. So I fixed it and re plugged it in. Ever since I plugged it in it created a cylinder one misfire.  When I disconnect the knock sensor entirely cause idk if I damaged it wiring it in reversed and running the engine. It runs better with the knock sensor disconnected and cylinder one misfire vanishes but then it has a slight misfire on cylinder 3. using of my autel scan tool on live read setting it only shows 1 single misfire on cylinder 3 and the count doesn’t fluctuate. But when the knock sensor is plugged in it has a cylinder one misfire and the count on scan tool constantly increases.  I already did coil pack test. Getting good spark and I replaced all fuel injector one coil pack and all 4 spark plugs. I scoped the pistons with a camera to check for coolant seeping through head gasket and thankfully I don’t see any leaking. I do have a compression tool but compression sounds fine with gas pedal to the floor and engine crank sounds. I’m not new to working on cars either. Have some knowledge. I’m thinking it’s an issue maybe in the head with valves or something. Any tips or advice helps. 

Hey Johnaldregan! Welcome to the forums.

I'm wondering if the fact that the misfires stop counting with the knock sensor disconnected may be misleading. It could be that the misfire is still occurring, but the ECM stops counting misfires as part of a fail-safe strategy once a knock sensor code sets as Current.

Knock sensors normally aren't polarity sensitive, so I really doubt that you damaged anything with reversing the wires.

With the knock sensor connected and fault codes cleared, what are your fuel trims at idle and 2,500 RPM?

Since you've already done an audible relative compression test and replaced some other parts, I'm thinking you may have an intake leak on cylinder #1 and/or #3. I'd be tempted to do the good ol' SD water test on the intake and see if you can hear a leak:

Do I do this with or without the knock sensor plugged in ? Checking the fuel trim

Never mind I see you clearly said with the knock plugged in. What wierd is I don’t see a fuel trim listed on live reading. My scan tool is a autel maxis 808bt

 

No leaks found. Here’s video of fuel trims graphed

Just posted the videos you asked for. Let me know if you can see them I cannot but they uploaded it said.

Video isn’t uploading I think so here is the info.
At idle 935rpm
Short fuel trim 0.781 to 1.56
Long fuel trim 30.46
At 2505 rpm
Short trim 0.781 to 1.56
Long trim 16.40

So the leak ended up being the fuel injector insulator on the #1 cylinder. I replaced the intake
Manifold gasket and found that out because istill had the issue. used a straw to focus a little water directly into the insulator area. worked pefectly. So now working on replacing the lower fuel injector insulator on #1 cylinder. since the (fuel injector) upper o-ring is new and the lower o-ring cushion is also new. Also I now got have a code p0010 for the bank 1 vvt solenoid. I tested voltage with car on but not running. And only see .57 volts I watched another video testing that connector for the vvt solenoid and they had upwards of 8 volts. Could this be an issue also?

I had tested the vvt solenoid also and the actuator for the solenoid is working peoperly moving up and down. But the ohms reading was 7.6 and I saw somewhere it said it should be 8 ohms or above. Does my vvt solenoid sound ok or needs to be replaced also ?

So the leak ended up being the injector one cylinder. I replaced the intake
Manifold gasket and still had the issue. So working on replacing the lower fuel injector seal now. since the (fuel injector) upper o-ring is new and the lower o-ring cushion is also new. But the lowest one that the cushion sits on wasn’t replaced and that’s where it is sucking\leaking from.

Awesome! Great find.  I've had troubles with the lower injector seals on Toyota products before, as well. A vacuum leak at the injector seal would very neatly explain the misfire on cylinder #1 and the fuel trim values you posted.

Also I got code p0010 for the bank 1 vvt solenoid. I tested voltage with car on but not running. And only see .57 volts I watched another video testing that connector for the vvt solenoid and they had upwards of 8 volts. Could this be an issue also

No offense meant, but are you sure the VVT solenoid connector wasn't left unplugged at some point during your testing/repairs? I can't recall ever having problems with the 2.7L VVT systems.

The VVT solenoid on this engine is power side switched, meaning that you'll only see power at the solenoid with the engine running and the solenoid commanded on. Toyota service info indicates that it'll be a 12V pulse width voltage.

 

I had tested the vvt solenoid also and the actuator for the solenoid is working peoperly moving up and down. But the ohms reading was 7.6 and I saw somewhere it said it should be 8 ohms or above. Does my vvt solenoid sound ok or needs to be replaced also ?

Solenoid resistance can change depending on temperature, so 7.6 ohms is close enough for me. I'd leave the solenoid alone for now and check the circuit.

Thank you this was what I needed. I think the issue I'm having is in the wire coming from PCM I believe. I tested the votlage at terminal connector with key on but not engine running. I should have tested the OCV(oil control valve) terminal connector with engine running. I appreciate the fast feedback and I will update as soon as resolved and post my findings.

the OCV was unplugged accidentally due to the broken terminal connector for at least a day, sadly it was hidden under electrical tape from previous owner which is where I believe the code originated from.

well it was a failed PCM after back probing and checking the wires. wires were fine. PCM needs replacement. thanks.