Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

Engine swap - crank but no start/no spark

More
3 weeks 5 days ago #79950 by BseriesBro
Hello all I am brand new to the forum. My name is Chuck and I'm a novice, mostly backyard mechanic with am intermediate level of understanding lol. Now to the point!
 I recently did a motor swap for a friend of mine on a 2004 Mazda 3 S with the 2.3 naturally aspirated. The old motor was working more like an oil pump then a combustion motor. The new motor was bought online on ebay and is also a 2.3 but out of a ford and configured differently.  Example - accessories in different places. 
 Here is a list of things I had to swap from old motor to new.
- timing cover and crank sensor
- crank pulley
- water pump pulley
- serpentine belt tensioner assembly
- alternator
- oil pan
- ac compressor
- idler pulley 
- valve cover (because coils were a different plug and old coils wouldnt mount in new cover)
- ignition coils
- manual flywheel and clutch
I had to swap all these things mostly to make the new motor "jive" with the old engine harness and to make the existing belts work. 
As you probably know this particular motor is a giant pain to set the timing on. So I purchased the special timing tools and took extra care setting the timing. Motor rotates freely (but not too freely) by hand.
The job went beautifully as far as the physical mechanix. Car is all back together and job is clean. 
NOW FOR THE MEAT! Car is only turning over(cranking) and will not start! Intermittently throwing 2 communication error codes. One for abs lost communication and the other for ipc cluster lost communication. I've pulled the coils and checked the resistance they're good but not getting any spark what so ever and can't figure out why. I've checked the obvious things like relays and fuses. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
3 weeks 4 days ago #80020 by bills4065
When you turn the key to on- do your warning lights come on? - check engine light ? etc. etc.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
3 weeks 4 days ago #80119 by BseriesBro
Yes they do. See attached Pic. Even though the check Engine light stays on after cranking it has no dtc's except for the before mentioned u-codes

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
3 weeks 4 days ago #80270 by bills4065
I am assuming you can communicate with the car with a scan tool, since you said intermittent U codes. I would recheck all my connectors and ground connections since this was an engine swap.If still no start- I would try cranking car over and check at a fuel injector to see if you have pulsing control.Use a test light or noid light for this.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
3 weeks 3 days ago #80302 by ferris48

Yes they do. See attached Pic. Even though the check Engine light stays on after cranking it has no dtc's except for the before mentioned u-codes
 
I don't see a picture :(

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
3 weeks 3 days ago - 3 weeks 3 days ago #80303 by ferris48
Have you seen this: diag.net/msg/m438upc23y4c4kotyhpzv0upne

 

cmp rides on 1.5v
ckp rides on 2.5v


Cam and crank signals are biased at around 2.5v

Unplug sensor KOEO, do you have these voltages? it's a quick test to check wiring integrity back to the computer.


 
Last edit: 3 weeks 3 days ago by ferris48.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Noah

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.322 seconds