Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Turbo possible electrical issue
Will not crank unless you take cover off and force the starter relay to close contact and turn the key / ignition switch at same time.
Fuel pump will not activate unless you turn it on with a scan tool (Autel MaxiCheck MX900) through the pcm and leave it activated by the scanner.
And will only start and stay running if you ziptie the contact closed on the Auto Shutdown Relay (ASD) & keep the fuel pump engaged with scanner and force the starter relay to engage.
When it starts (by doing the 3 above mentioned things) it runs great and can leave it idling for hours no problem. Fans kick off / on as needed and everything else works.
I had let it sit and idle for over an hour and then suddenly for a brief moment it would start up from the key and then swapped relays out to the originals I had removed and then it would not crank from the key so swapped back to the relays I had just removed and it acts the same as it started out.
I am getting P0688 fault code but no check engine light.
I have tried:
1. Changed out the starter relay
2. Changed out the ASD relay
3. Changed out the Total Integrated Power Module (TIPM)
4. Checked all fuses.
5. Replaced ignition switch
I have a couple of these things that come my to my shop.
I would like to share just some general advice about pattern failires that I have learned from working on these.
The ground eleylet crimps are notoriously bad. Particularly around the radiator support and inner fender areas, down low behind the headlamps and bumper support area.
Also the pins on the computer connectors don't always make great contact now that these are approaching 20 years of service. One of the cars I am thinking of would be a no start, or stall or the transmission range indicator would drop out until you flex and pull on the PCM connector. Also the PCM itself is has been problematic on another one.
I know this advice isn't directly addressing any of your symptoms, but when these cars come in with problems like you explain, I generally start testing the grounds and am not surprised to find them in need of repair.
Thank you for your input from past experiences! I am thinking it is absolutely wiring related on the ASD circuitry or the transmission neutral safety switch. I have got access now to a massive amount of wiring diagrams and other information on it. I feel I will find the issue soon. I messed with it and had accidentally somehow got it where it would actually crank from the key and start.... Then I swapped out the 2 relays I had been temporarily using back to the factory relays and it immediately went back to what it had started out doing and then I swapped back to the temporary relays I had somehow by accident gotten it working with and it is still doing what it started out with.
Topic Author
