Ac clutch issue

Hello, I have a 2004 gmc sierra with the 5.3. Recently I ruined my low port shradder so I had to evacuate the system and change that. After re-charging, everything was perfect, once I disconnected my hoses the ball that seals the high side would not seal. So, I had to re-evacuate the system and change that. Now, when I'm at idle everything fine, pressures around 50, low, and 250ish, high. But when im at high rpms my clutch disengages. I think it could be the compressor but confused as to why it's fine at idle. I have video files attached below, never mind it wont let me upload. But I have already replaced the belt and tensioner, thinking maybe it was slipping 

What was the ambient temperature when you were getting the 50 low, 250 high?
What were the pressures at the higher rpms?
What method did you use to recharge the system?

86 ambient temp, I wanted to upload a video of the gauge set as I rev up, but too large. When clutch is not engaged low side goes up to 80 and high down to about 175. When clutch engages again, still at high rpms, low goes down to 30 and high about 250. Then disengages again goes to about same pressures and then engages again. I pressure tested with nitrogen, no decay, vacuumed to 30lbs sat for 30 min, very little to no decay. Proceeded to vacuum for 45 min to 1 hour. Then filled through the low side, vehicle running with the gauge set, I have a can tap on the freon can. Purge the line at every can change. System says that it takes 1.5lbs but only seems to take 1 and a half 12oz cans. Which seems off to me. The first time I recharged i remember it taking 2 and a half. But had to reduce it due to the high side not sealing. My gauge hoses have seemed to lost some of the rubber gaskets in the ends. Need to get some new ones soon, but would that possibly be a culprit to my issue? 

Attached are pictures taken from the video. Starting with before I rev(low: 50, high:250ish), low goes down to about 30 & high stays, then clutch disengages. Goes up to 80, down to 175. Then, engages again low goes back down and high side up

It sounds like you did the charging procedure correctly. The capacity chart that I have says that truck takes 26 ounces of R134. Does the sticker on the truck say 1.5 lbs which would be 21 ounces. If you only got a 12 ounce can and a half in, you are undercharged no matter which capacity is correct.
The compressor short cycling like that can be an indication of a low charge.
Your pressures seem to be in line when it's running given your ambient temperature.

Given your ambient temperature, pressures should be in the 45-55 psi range on the low side and around 225-250 psi on the high side.
You mention that the compressor kicks off at higher rpms but does it stay off or just continues to cycle? If your pressures on the high side are not getting extremely high, then the high pressure cutout switch should not be shutting off the compressor.
The first thing that you need to do is make sure you have the correct refrigerant capacity in the system before you can diagnose what actually is wrong.  I will say that you should always go by the underhood capacity label for accurate capacity.

It continues to cycle once the low side builds to 80 psi it reengages, even if im still in high rpms. So, how would I tell my refrigerant level? Other than taking the pressure on the system? The system won't take anymore from the can even using hot water and vehicle off. That is why it's confusing me because it's acting like it is low but it won't take anymore and high side pressures do not exceed 250-275. Under the hood states 1.6 lbs

So can I add refrigerant to the system without rising the psi in the system? I'm just unsure of how to add refrigerant if my pressures are where they are suppose to be. Do I have to use a recovery machine to know what my refrigerant capacity is? Also, when I pulled vacuum that should have removed all the refrigerant in the system correct?

If you have enough refrigerant in the system, you may have an input problem. 

But I was asking how do I know how much refrigerant is in the system? And see if I have power at the clutch when it disengages?

A recovery machine is the only way you are going to know how much refrigerant is in the system. Vacuuming down the system is to get any moisture out and to aide in pulling the new refrigerant into the system. It is not to pull refrigerant out. The system should have been empty before you started vacuuming it down.
You should always recharge the system with the amount listed on the under hood label. If that is gone, you need to find a reliable source for that information.
The most reliable way to get the correct amount of refrigerant in the system is with an AC machine or a programmable refrigerant scale and a 30 lb tank of refrigerant. Trying to use the small cans is hit or miss because you don't always get everything out of the cans and you have no way of knowing if it had exactly 12 ounces in it unless you weighed it before and after charging.
When you were charging the system, did you have it set to max cooling with the fan speed on high and did you raise the rpms to about 2,000 when trying to get the last amount in? Sometimes it takes a while for the system to suck in the refrigerant after the initial charging into the vacuum.

Your pressures are just a guide but won't give you an exact amount of refrigerant in the system. The pressures have a correlation to outside ambient temperature and humidity. I never charge a system just based on pressures.
I still think this system is low on charge given how much you said you were able to get in compared to what should be in the system. Maybe the cycling switch is not working correctly which could be part of the problem but unless you get the correct amount of refrigerant into the system, everything else is just guessing.
What are your vent temps with the system cycling?

Did you look at or replace the orifice tube during this repair? What about the compressor?

I have not looked at the orfice tube, and I mean, I looked at the compressor but idk exactly what to look for in a "bad" compressor. It works perfect at idle, no problems what so ever. My vent temps when it was 86 out were about 50 degrees. I'll have to look at it since more.

The orifice tube can give an indication on what kind of shape the system has been in. If it's relatively clean, it means that there have not been any debris in the system and that the compressor is probably in good shape. If it's packed with debris, it could be partially blocked causing cooling issues and indicating that the compressor probably has an internal problem.
Check out the chart on this website to see the relationship of ambient temps, outside humidity, AC pressures and acceptable vent temps.
www.acdiagnosis.com/post/how-temperature...t-car-ac-performance

I just hooked me meter to it. When the clutch disengages it is not supplying power to it. At idle it has about 13.55 then once it disengages goes to 0 and then when it engages again, back to 13.55. The relay does click when it disengages at high rpm. I haven't checked the orifice tube yet. But if it is clogged could it be cause it to do this? 

The meter readings will be normal since the computer is probably controlling when the clutch comes on and off. With it off, there would be no power at the connector.
I still think you are low on charge and that will cause the short cycling that you are experiencing.

I would monitor the low pressure switch signal to see the voltage level when it disengage. When the switch opens due to low refrigerant, it should read 0v. I would also compare ambient temp with the static pressure. If the static pressures are way lower than ambient, I would say that it is low on refrigerant.

So if my low pressure switch reads 0v when it disengages then im low on refrigerant? And how do I add refrigerant if the system won't take anymore? Also, will that cause my pressures to go up?

My system passes the temperature pressure relation test

Yes, when the clutch disengages, the pressures should equalize after a few minutes to static pressures. The video that I posted is the best one that I can find. You just need to watch it if you have not already done so.
Monitor the low pressure switch voltage from when it is working to when it stops. You can compare ambient with static pressures as I mentioned before.