Dodge TIPM FIXED!! New compressor did the trick. Thank You all for the help!!

Have a 2012 Dodge with a 2.4 come into my shop. The compressor had frozen. Also a leak on the condenser. Replaced the condenser, and compressor and recharged the system with no leaks. Turned on the A/C but clutch will not engage. Checked power at compressor. No power. Can't find the A/C relay because it is on the TIPM board. My question is are there any other checks that I can do to the TIPM?. Thought about trying to jump the relay, but thought against it because I didn't want to take the chance. Don't really want to tell the customer that he has to purchase a new TIPM and be wrong. Any other suggestions?

do you have bi directional controlson a scanner? maybe wire an externalrelay??

also whatmodel is this dodge??

It is a Dodge Caliper. I have a Verus Pro and cant make the clutch fire on a functional test. I am pretty sure it is in the TIPM but I don't have a wiring diagram so I can't do a relay bypass.

I've also done the external relay, check bbbindustries for a diagram if not on there someone here can post 1 for you

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Thanks for the info, but the wiring diagram for this car is not there. Does anyone here have a wiring diagram or a tip on where to find one other than Mitchell? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Do you not like Mitchell? When it comes to wiring schematics, I prefer Mitchell.

Are you sure of the year? In a 2012 Caliber, I can only find 2.0L. I find 2.4L in 2011.

Thank You for your response. I love Mitchell but I don't have access to it yet. I am sure of the year but you may be right. It may be a 2.0. The car is at the shop and I am relying on my memory..(not a good thing) lol

Here you go.

pole71 wrote: Do you not like Mitchell? When it comes to wiring schematics, I prefer Mitchell.

Are you sure of the year? In a 2012 Caliber, I can only find 2.0L. I find 2.4L in 2011.

I was able to verify that the engine is a 2.0L. My apologies.......It helps to know what your working on.......

Are you sure that this Caliber has a compressor clutch? Because every Caliber/Compass/Patriot/whatever I've seen had no clutch, just a variable solenoid. Please let me know if I'm wrong. :lol:

If it's not cooling at the vents, then I'd start with a current measurement at that solenoid. Generally, I find those draw about 1A when the solenoid is commanded wide open.

Tyler wrote: Are you sure that this Caliber has a compressor clutch? Because every Caliber/Compass/Patriot/whatever I've seen had no clutch, just a variable solenoid. Please let me know if I'm wrong. :lol:

If it's not cooling at the vents, then I'd start with a current measurement at that solenoid. Generally, I find those draw about 1A when the solenoid is commanded wide open.

This is what locked up. It also has a two wire connection. I can't get any power to the new one in the car. I also tried a functional test with my scanner to no results. Any direction you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Update.. I hooked my scanner to this vehicle and could not perform any functional test. I hooked my scanner in doom mode and checked at compressor and was getting negative.12 vdc. Reversed leads and now getting 12vdc. Have no other choice than to assume I received a bad compressor. What I am stumped on is why was I getting -vdc? By the diagram, I had my leads connected correctly.

Found my mistake about the negative voltage. The new compressor came with new plugs, one red and one black. When you plug in the connector, the red wire is the ground. I feel better that I got a bad compressor.